Scorpion Paper Weights

[DGold]

I have two emperor scorpions in my freezer that died (of natural causes), and was thinking about making some nifty paper weights or something like that to preserve them, since they are extremely cool-looking critters. Does anybody have any suggestions on how I might go about making them? I'm pretty sure resin is the way to go, but I don't know what to do about a mold. Anyone have any experience in this area?
Thanks,
Dennis

[reptilist]

The resin, catalyst and various molds can be had at some hobby shops...have to call around...I think "Casting Crafts" is a primary wholesale company. The molds I used were plastic. It is a bit tricky and messy, so you might want to practice with less interesting subjects first.
Also, a big scorpion may not work well unless you fix (embalm) the specimen first. The catalyst creates quite a bit of heat and a fleshy subject may burst....NOT a pretty sight!!!

[MikeB]

I found this on the web.

http://www.taxidermy.net/forums/BeginnersArticles/03/g/03E64A46D2.html

Mike

[JJFeldner]

suggestion due to his experience in taxidermy. Or, maybe, it was taxi driving???LOL

[onefreelady]

Who do you know that does taxidermy?

[Kerwin Ross]

Here are a few tips; some have been mentioned already.

You can go to a craft store and buy the resin & catalyst in small quantities. You can also order them from taxidermy supply catalogs. It depends upon how much you want to do. It is cheaper to buy in quantity if you are going to use that much (gallons). I happen to buy all my casting/molding materials from a friend of mine that is in the adult entertainment business (body castings, etc..). I can get it from her a lot cheaper than any other source :)

They do make molds specifically for those resins. That way a mold release is not required. If you do decide to use something else for a mold you will need a mold release. I like the silicone mold release that is sprayed out of a can. You will have to test other molds as when the catalyst is added to the resin, it gets extremely hot and can melt a mold that is not specifically made for that.

Remember the mold is actually upside down when you pour. Mix a small batch first (enough for the first layer), resin and catalyst. The more drops of catalyst the faster and hotter it will set up. After stirring, you will have to get the air bubbles out of the resin/catalyst. Any type of vibrating device will work to include a dryer. Pour the first layer in and let it get almost hard, then add your specimen, pour a small layer (not enough to cover the specimen though), and while it is drying you can adjust and move the specimen as its drying. Then add another layer to cover the specimen. When that is dry, add another. Your last layer can have color (they sell that too) or use dirt/sand etc..... When totally dry you can pop it out of the mold, be careful as you can leave fingerprints until it is totally dry. Then you can spray some glue out of an aresol can onto some felt, place the mold (bottom) on to the felt, then use a scalpel and cut it out.

The vapors are extremely harmful (once in your system, they never leave) and should be done outside with a respirator.

http://myweb.cableone.net/azmilk/molds-1.jpg

Here is a paper weight that I did 13 years ago of my unit crests. I also have a tarantula around somewhere that I did that long ago too.

http://myweb.cableone.net/azmilk/molds-2.jpg

You can see the layering that I mentioned. As the catalyst is mixed with the resin and heats up, IT WILL MOVE your specimens, so you have to watch it. Once it sets up, THAT'S IT!

http://myweb.cableone.net/azmilk/molds-3.jpg

http://myweb.cableone.net/azmilk/molds-4.jpg

And so that everyone knows, I was a licensed taxidermist from 1974-1998. I have mounted all kinds of birds, mammals, fish, and reptiles. I have competed at State and Regional Taxidermy Competitions in Arizona and New Mexico and through those competitions I have been Nationally Certified in Reptiles by earning points through those competitions. I no longer do commercial work for clients. And I only enter competition pieces every now and then.

Good luck on those paper weights!

Kerby...

[JJFeldner]

taxi driver! Whew. LOL

[DGold]

Thank you reptilist, Kerby, and MikeB... I'll try it out!

[Kerwin Ross]

Jerry, when I was in the Infantry (Mechanized) I felt like a taxi driver! LOL But that just meant we got to the dismount point faster. We rarely attacked mounted, it was still all leg work. The APC's were my taxis. Maybe that's why I couldn't get hired as a taxi driver????

And jumping out of a C-130 just meant you got to your "dismount" point (drop zone) a little quicker too. It all came down to leg work no matter what "taxi" I used.........

Ahhh, to be young again....

Kerby...

[Cmpyrrhus]

... back online a bit late..

I had some casting resin I could have sparred. I used it for making molds for jewelry, but do not really like using it. I prefer carving wax and rubber molds, so I used it up on a project. Make sure ya read up on getting those air bubbles out also. Kerby did have great ideas, like adding sand and color dies to the resin wich adds to the over-all look of the piece. The less stuff in the casting the better the result too. I have seen some nifty pieces done that included cactus ribs and whatnot, but this I am sure would not be for the beginner.

I would vouch, if you could afford it, to buy some in bigger quantities, which reduces the cost if you plan on using a bit. After the scorp projects, you may get a bit hooked on making castings, so you will have more to play around with. Small cans of resin are like $20 and bottle of catalyst is around $2-5. This is not much to work with.

Good luck, it is fun doing interesting projects like this.